The Tiger, arguably the mightiest land predator known to modern man. No animal that I know of evokes multiple emotions of awe and fear at the same time as the tiger. The majesty of its presence, the beauty of its orange coat striped with black when it hits the sunlight, the unshakable un easiness one gets when a tiger makes eye contact with you are all part of why this animal is so feared and at the same time revered. There is no other animal more fitting to be the national animal of India than the Tiger, its absolutely a no brainer.
Over the years, I have travelled
to quite a few corners of India to explore its wildlife and in particular the
mighty tiger. These include the Southern forests of Nagarhole National Park (known
more commonly as Kabini), The Central Indian forests of Tadoba Andhari Tiger
Reserve and Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve as well as the wilds of North Eastern
India in Assam where I have ventured to the floodplains of Kaziranga National
Park where too I have encountered this mighty striped cat.
India by far is the best place to
see tigers by miles. Tigers do inhabit other parts of Asia, but it is only in
India that this golden striped cat can be seen out in the open in its wild
habitat.
This is mainly due to the immense
efforts made by the Indian people and their successive governments in recognizing
the plight of this mightiest of the cat species and taking the initiative to do
something about it to preserve and conserve the wild populations. This is something
most nations need to look at and learn by example. The tigers through these conservation
initiatives have grown in numbers and become the pride of a nation.
The most famous hunter of man
eating tigers and later turned conservationist , Jim Corbett once wrote-
“A tiger is a large-hearted gentleman with
boundless courage, and when he is exterminated - as exterminated he will be
unless public opinion rallies to his support - India will be the poorer by
having lost the finest of her fauna”.
Across the entire Indian
subcontinent, are varied habitats and reserves where tigers are found. From the
dense cloud forests of the Western Ghats, to the arid scrub forests of the
Deccan Plateu, to the flood plains of Assam, to the mangroves of the Sundarbans
and the Terai Forests of far Northern India bordering Nepal.
Among these, from tales of old
hunters, and their hunting records, as well as eye witness accounts always
claimed the Terai Tigers in far Northern India held special significance in
displaying a much larger stature and bulk compared to the tigers in other
habitats.
Over the years, through social
media, daring Indian photographers and travellers began publishing their explorations
of this unique region.
Often called 'Northern Indian' or
'Nepal' tigers, the animals that inhabit the Terai ecosystem are unique in
terms of appearance and behaviour. The Terai landscape is simply the forest
patch that runs along the foothills of the himalayas. Because of good forest
cover and availability of water throughout the year, the landscape is able to
support a large variety of birds and mammals, including tigers, rhinos,
elephants, sloth and asiatic black bears and numerous other species.
"The Terai Arc Landscape
(TAL) is an 810km stretch between the river Yamuna in the west and the river
Bhagmati in the east, comprising the Shivalik hills, the adjoining bhabhar
areas and the Terai flood plains.
It is spread across the Indian
states of Uttarakhand, Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, and the low lying hills of
Nepal. The landscape boasts of some of India’s most well-known Tiger Reserves
and Protected Areas such as Corbett Tiger Reserve, Rajaji National Park, Dudhwa
Tiger Reserve, Valmiki Tiger Reserve and Nepal’s Bardia Wildlife Sanctuary,
Chitwan National Park, and Sukhla Phanta Wildlife Sanctuary. In total, the
landscape has 13 Protected Areas, nine in India and four in Nepal, covering a
total area of 49,500 km2, of which 30,000km2 lies in India.
The images which came out of
these explorations and published on social media caught my eye. The tigers seen
were noticeably bigger, and descriptions by the photographers further claimed
they are truly monstrous in size, especially the male tigers. Their appearance
in the pictures also did showcase these characteristics which intrigued me, as
well as the fact that the images showcased boasted some of the best backgrounds
and habitats suitable for captivating photography. With misty trails, dense
forests and trees which gives these images an ethereal effect.
Further research into the region
in India narrowed me down to a few locations, which included Dudhwa Tiger
Reserve and bordering Kishanpur Sanctuary, as well as the new name which kept
trending Pillibhit Tiger Reserve.
Further going down the rabbit
hole, I discovered some magnificent video’s and photographs of tiger encounters
in Pillibhit Tiger Reserve. The majority of the video’s were of big male tigers
in their prime. Absolute monsters who seemed far larger in stature and bulk to
any other big male tiger I have encountered in Central and South India. This
excited me very much, and attempted to find more information on this region,
how to get there and how we can organize a safari expedition there.
One of the best things about
Pillibhit for me was that one can drive by road to the location from Delhi.
This means I would not need to labour myself through airports to connect with
domestic flights which can be quite a tiresome experience. Only one international
flight from Colombo to Delhi and an overnight stay, and we start the adventure
by road the next day. This was the most enticing factor of Pillibhit. Not only
did it save money when it came to domestic flights, for someone who hates
sitting in a crowded plane and handling Indian airport security and customs
each time you depart and arrive, this was a godsend.
We began making plans for the
expedition and promoting the tour to our existing client base as well as
advertising the same as a novel destination and tour. Despite myself not travelled there before , I was confident we would be rewarded with some great tiger sightings.
Though I did have some fear deep down if we didn’t get a sighting at all given I
am going with clients for the first time to this region. If I am not mistaken
this was the first group of Sri Lankans venturing to this reserve.
Another reason for me to try out
this new tiger reserve was the fact that with the popularity of other reserves
such as Tadoba and Bandhavgarh, they have become quite crowded, with each
safari encountering hundreds of local and foreign tourists each clamouring for
a tiger sighting. Very rarely and almost never would one get a sighting to
oneself anymore, and usually the photographs deceive the viewer who does not
hear the loud cacophony of tourists and jeep drivers shouting and inching their
way for a view.
Knowing Pillibhit is a new
reserve, I knew though there are passionate locals who do visit the reserve, its
crowds are not even close to those of the bigger more famous reserves.
With all the benefits of visiting
this reserve the fact that the tigers seen here are much larger, more majestic
in appearance and famed for giving front facing encounters was the icing on the
cake. I was dreaming of a front facing encounter with a massive male tiger from
the Terai. This was all I could think of until the fateful day of the trip.
Come the 1st of
February 2026, and myself and the group set off from Colombo to Delhi. Reaching
Delhi by evening we stayed overnight in the city and rested in preparation for
the road trip to come.
Early morning the next day, we
set off in a tour bus with packed breakfast on a long road trip to Pillibhit.
This was to be a 7 hour journey, hence it was nice that we were in a spacious
bus where we could stand up and stretch our legs if we wanted to during the
drive. Further the drive was quite pleasant as most of the drive was through motorways
giving a smooth journey.
One thing to note that during the
time of our travels which was in February, the region was still in Winter, with
temperatures coming down to low as 10 centigrade during the mornings. Hence with
preparations we dressed accordingly. This too was a pleasant change from the
searing heat of Indian summers where most tiger tours take place in Central
India.
The drive was quite scenic
through Indian countryside’s, until we reached the town of Pillibhit. But the
lodge we were staying in and the reserve itself was further away. Driving
through we observed one of the main features of this region, which are massive
irrigational canals running through the towns and villages, and including the reserve
where most of the signature sightings are on either banks of these canals.
With light blue waters, and red
bricks lining the canals, we were told by our naturalist guide that these were
irrigation channels built by the British during the 1920’s.
Turning off from the main road,
we finally reached our abode for the next four days after maneuvering our bus
through narrow trails through wheat fields. Sal Cottages, a brand new lodge
built by Manish Mehrotra from Lucknow.
Built right on the border of the
reserve, with towering sal trees seen in the border (inside the reserve) this
simple yet cozy cottage is the ideal place to stay while on safari here in Pillibhit.
Manish is an excellent host, and ensured personally that we are comfortable and
have everything that we desire. The food is hearty and homely, and piping hot
which helps with the cold weather.
On the day of checking in, we set
off somewhat late by around 2.30 PM to our game drive to Pillibhit Tiger
Reserve.
The reserve has two zones, Zone 1
and Zone 2, and we decided to head to Zone 2 for this game drive given it’s said
to have the most tiger sightings. The zone itself is quite small, with two
roads (both are one way on opposite directions) running parallel to the canal
with the forest on one side and the canal on the other. One road is tarmac
while the other is dirt. Within these routes, there are a few loops and bi
roads one can take interior as well. Overall its quite a small area we will be
covering.
As we entered the reserve itself,
we observed some of the local species which included Rhesus Macaque, and the
Terai Langur which were the largest langur species I had encountered.
While driving along the road,
observing all sides of the road (The canal side as well had many bushes and
trees along the bank which is known to be resting places of tigers), we got
some news of some alarm calls, hence we reversed back to observe (the road is
one way, hence only reversing back is possible). While reversing , I peered
into the deep forest and at once made eye contact with a crouching tiger. I
informed the local tracker and driver who decided to drive further up and give
it space to come out. There were three of four other jeeps , and though the road
is narrow, the drivers managed to communicate with each other and collectively
give space to the cat to come out. After several minutes of waiting the tiger
did emerge, and we observed it to be a beautiful tigress. She was initially
sniffing the air and grimacing to catch signs of scent marking a behavioral
practice among cats known as the flehmen response which enables the cat to
process scents. After which the tigress stepped onto the road and began walking
towards the onlooking jeeps, all the while the jeeps keep moving forward to
maintain a good distance from the cat in order to not disturb it. It was a truly
welcoming sight to see jeeps doing such, which helps the animal overall in not
altering of obstructing its natural behavior.
After a few minutes along the
road, the tigress decided to blend onto the forest and move on.
Driving along the road and from the
junction at the end we put onto the opposite side of the canal, and approached
a large block of jeeps. Peering through the same we observed there was a large
male tiger seated in the middle of the road. Given the road is too narrow, and
our jeep being the last to reach there, we did not get a good view, but our
groups other three jeeps were in the front and able to witness the tiger, who
was named by the local guides as “Rocket”. The female we encountered was named “Chuka
Female”. It was not informed to us, but by 5.00 PM all vehicles began moving
out, and the guide Rehemat Bhai did not speak good English later informed that
the reserve timings are morning game drives from 7 AM – 10 AM and afternoons
are 2.00 PM – 5.00 PM which is a strange timing given the light is perfect when
we leave the reserve and could easily get good photography done till 5.30 PM or
later.
Back at the lodge, we reflected
on the days sightings over a piping hot cup of masala chai. The temperatures as
the sun disappeared was plummeting, and hence we all rushed indoors to properly
layer our clothing. By evening we gathered by a roaring bon fire for some
fellowship before heading to the dining all for a piping hot meal. The nights
were cold, but the lodge provided some comfortable blankets and for those who
needed extra help some electric heaters. The nights sleeping in Sal Cottages
were some of the most sound deep sleeping nights I have ever experienced. The
climate, the beds and the cozy blankets all played a role in giving me a great
nights sleep.
Up early the next day, the
temperature was very cold, I would estimate to be below 10 centigrade. Dressed
up and ready we all set out, and boarded our jeeps for the morning game drive.
By 7.00 AM we entered the reserve (the reserve entrance is 5 minutes from our lodge).
The park was especially beautiful in the morning with the cool mist hanging in
the forest, and floating on the canal strip as well. Our guide decided to take
a detour loop through the forest road while the others drove on. Landing back
on the canal parallel road while driving on in the cold misty trail, I noticed
on my right (the side of the canal) some leaves in the shrubs and bushes
moving, and thinking it was some birds foraging I looked, to find a crouching
tiger whose bright orange was clear as night and day with its eyes locked
straight into mine as we passed the head and eyes kept locked with mine. I took
a few seconds to register what I saw in my head, and a few more seconds for something
come out of my mouth, when with excitement I blurted our “Tiger Tiger Tiger”
and the guide asked me where, I just signalled where I saw it, and we reversed
back to find her still crouched almost ready to pounce and looking at us. We
passed the tiger and reversed further back to give it space to come out, and to
further not anger or alarm the tiger fearing a potential charge. This was an
unforgettable moment, the few seconds I locked eyes with the tiger was
something which deeply etched in my mind. After a few minutes, through the mist
the tiger entered the road, and casually crossed to the other side. Despite no
chances of a great photograph through this all, the moment itself is something
I can never forget. From appearances this too was the same female we
encountered the day before the Chuka Female.
Excited with our morning
encounter we continued our game drive , observing the splendid nature and sceneries
in this beautiful reserve. The morning was quite cold and chilly, and the sun coming
out in full strength was only after around 9.30 AM which was quite welcoming.
Back at our lodge, we discussed
the days sightings, as the other three jeeps had not encountered anything that
morning.
We arrive back at the lodge for
breakfast, which was most welcome, but we were mindful not to eat too much
given we had to eat lunch again in a few hours.
The afternoons are quite pleasant
at the lodge with the sun out, and lovely to relax outside.
By 2.00 PM we were back inside,
and driving on the same route on Zone 2. We were all quite keen to come across
a big male, hopefully the superstar of the park known locally as S3. After
waiting for hours listening to alarm calls and all the while observing many
species of birds including Greater Racquet Tailed Drongo , Jungle Owlet among
others, we decided to go to the end of the one way road, and cut across the
canal and head to the dirt road going along the canal in the opposite
direction.
While driving, our guide at the
time Aneesh spotted something on the other side of the canal. It was none other
than the giant male tiger S3! Even at a distance we all noticed how noticeably bigger
he was than any tiger I had ever seen. He was quite imposing as he walked along
the opposite road next to the canal. Positioning ourselves where S3 would come
to an opening we observed him striding along the other bank. Though not as
close as I would have liked it to be , it was quite a thrilling moment to first
glimpse a big male tiger of the Terai for the first time.
Excited and happy during our
return back to our lodge, we discussed the evening’s events, and one jeep had
encountered what was said to be a different male tiger in the bushes on their
way out. So all in all, everyone in the group were getting some steady tiger
sightings which we were glad about.
The next day morning we all
decided to head to Zone 1, which was far prettier than Zone 2 with road
networks through the sal forests, and some stunning landscapes. We were told there
is a mother tigress with three sub adult cubs found here. We encountered
several alarm calls from Terai Grey Langur , but unsure where the tigers might
pop up from. A jeep up front from us claimed one of the tigers was out and went
back into the bush.
We positioned our jeeps strategically
and waited for over an hour in anticipation of the tigers to come out. The alarm
calls kept going off, but no signs of the tigers. What we collectively assumed
was that the tigers were fast asleep in the bush and unlikely to come out.
Hence we continued on the game drive, hoping to catch a glimpse of other
tigers, to no avail.
That afternoon as well we did not
get any tiger sightings back at Zone 2. We were all keen to try and find S3
again. But we did encounter a Sloth Bear by the road side foraging in the
bushes. The bear’s in India in general are far larger than the Sloth Bear sub
species we find in Sri Lanka and this particular specimen was exceptionally
large. I can confidently say it may have been the biggest Sloth Bear I have
encountered in my life.
The next day, we headed back to
Zone 2, and as soon as we entered through a different route, we began to hear alarm
calls, and a few jeeps ahead confirmed that the male tiger Rocket was spotted
walking to the bush.
In anticipation we waited, and caught
a brief glimpse of this male tiger. He was less stocky and bulky compared to S3.
Being a much younger individual he was slowly traversing the territory of the
big male, hoping to challenge the dominant male someday we could assume.
Rather than waiting, we decided
to move to the other side of the canal, and given it was one way, our guide
Rehemat decided to instruct the driver to reverse back due to a new of a tiger.
Due to a lack of language communication we were unclear of what was happening,
but as we reached the so called point, we waited, and out came the big male S3
! we got extremely excited seeing this giant up close, as he confidently kept
walking back and forth on the road, marking his territory, sitting down, then
walking again, rolling on the ground and back to walking again.
Keeping a safe distance we waited
for the big male to turn and walk towards us, and after some time he did
exactly that. Walking towards us, one point one has to be ready for in
Pillibhit is that the jeeps do not wait for the tiger to get too close, and
after about 20-30 meters, they would drive forward and maintain a safe gap.
Though its not ideal for photography, it was best for the tiger, as he would be
least disturbed by our movements or presence.
The big male kept on coming
towards, us, periodically walking through the forest, as well as the road side,
sniffing and marking his territory, completely unfazed by the onlooking humans.
The sheer size, and musculature of this imposing specimen easily made him the biggest tiger I have encountered in my years of travels in India. There was no other tiger as bulky or as imposing as S3. Further other big dominant males I had encountered in Bandhavagarh namely Bheem and Mahaman, as well as in Tadoba namely Matka Sur and Chota Makta all had terrible scars and wounds on their faces showcasing their battles for dominance with other males. S3 on the other hand seemed to be untouched with no visible disfigurements and scars on his face.
As he walked towards us, at one moment, S3 began to grab a tree trunk and proceeded to rub his face to mark his territory.
As a photographer, I was waiting
for moments where the tarmac was not visible and waited for the perfect moment
where he walked into a patch of sunlight which with the right techniques brings
out some compelling images.
The entire sequence last over 1
and a half hours to two hours (we were not sure as time flew with this
encounter), but by the end of the road at the main junction where the bifurcation
of the canals occur, S3 moved into the bushes.
Words could not explain what a
feeling it was after this unforgettable encounter. We had our fill when it came
to experiencing the best of the Terai Tigers for over an hour. Quality over
quantity was evident in this trip, with the encounter with the mighty S3 being
the icing on the cake.
Back at the lodge, the entire group was giddy with excitement and in the highest of spirits. Nothing could have prepared us for this encounter, and I knew then that the pictures I took were going to do justice to this mighty tiger as well as to Pillibhit. I truly felt one of my main dreams coming true with this encounter of one of the biggest tigers in India.
I could not wait till I came back
home to begin processing the best images, which I did and they came out
absolutely perfect.
That afternoon though exploring Zone
1, we did not encounter any tigers, but yet we weren’t complaining as the
morning encounter made up for all the empty game drives.
The spirits of all of us were at
an all time high that night as we celebrated our final night in Pillibhit.
Back in Delhi the next day, we
were excited to get back home and tell our tale of this adventure to all our
loved ones and friends.
It was an absolutely unforgettable
experience witnessing the tigers of the terai, and venturing to new grounds in
experiencing a completely new tiger reserve for us all.
With success riding on this
experience , I wowed to return again this May during the height of summer as
the lodge owner Manish said is a time where one has chances of encountering tigers
swimming across the canal as well.
With that in mind our story ends
here, but the journey to the amazing Terai forests in India will never be the
end.
S3 and the mighty tigers of the
Terai await my return in May !
