Sunday, April 24, 2016

Africa- A Dream Come True

Africa a place of my dreams. This was a land I was fascinated by since I was a little boy going through the amazing images on the National Geographic magazines, and the documentaries I watched. A land of teeming wildlife, and legendary species. This was my dream and something I needed to accomplish in my life.

Further, I had a healthy obsession with finding a big tusker in Africa. Ever since I started reading about elephants, I often came across accounts of big tuskers. Giant ivory carriers with tusks so large they almost touch the ground. All the books stated that most of these giants are long gone due to poaching. But a few still remained in places such as Kruger National Park in South Africa. The knowledge of their existence, fuelled my desire to see one. Through the years I amassed many books and material about these tuskers, and found that not all places in the world produce big ivory. Only few places in Southern Africa and East Africa have big bull elephants producing long and heavy tusks.  I got in touch with one of the foremost authorities on the subject, Dr Johan Marais, the author of the book Great Tuskers of Africa, as well as celebrated photographer Daryll Balfour who has a lot of experience with big tuskers, and was in fact almost trampled and killed by a big tusker named Tchockwane in Kruger. If I do travel to Africa it would be for a very short period of time, and hence I needed a place where I could almost guarantee a sighting. After much discussion we summarized that East Africa would be the best, and cheapest. The park and country I couldn’t decide until much later. There were a few options, namely in Tanzania the Ngoronogoro Crater was said to have a few old bulls, but the park is quite expensive. In Kenya, Tsavo has one of the biggest populations of big tuskers, but the park is so vast I was doubtful of my chances. Then there is Amboseli, a relatively small sized park, with vast open plains. There are a few big tuskers in the park, but whom arrived very seasonally. One big tusker in particular named Tim caught my attention, due to his majestic size and stature. He was the largest bull in Amboseli, and unlike most other big tuskers who are old and past their prime, Tim was a magnificent specimen in his prime.

So how did this Africa trip come about one might ask? Well thanks to the earnings from my book last year, I managed to have enough to organize a 1 week tour to Kenya, and I was able to take my mum along as well. She was thrilled when I asked her if she likes to come, and after several inquiries with agents I finalized with Ringo Adventure Safari’s, who seemed the best operator who listened to my requests, and also was great pricewise. Hamisi the managing director was very responsive, and checked with is sources about tusker sightings in Amboseli and Tsavo. This was something other operators did not, and which swayed me to use Ringo.

During this time of my life, I also had another major change, as I received an amazing job opportunity to work in the travel sector. This was also a childhood dream of mine, and I made the decision to move from 6 years at MAS over to my new role as Assistant Manager handling Inbound Tours for Classic Vacations.

With all the good things happening in my life, I was on a good path, until 3rd March. I was on holiday as I had just left MAS, and wanted to enjoy 1 month before starting my new role. The heat in Colombo was terrible and I made a spontaneous decision to head to Nuwara Eliya. I was with my regular driver Sampath, and we both hastily packed our bags and headed there. We stayed at my usual place Humbugs or Meena Ella Bungalow in Hakgala. That night went by without incident. The next day morning I took some interesting photos of some highland purple faced leaf monkey, and then in the afternoon, found a secret spot where I encountered the Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush or Arrenga. That night, after dinner we retired to the room. The next morning we woke up to find that all my camera gear, my wallet, my phone and Sampath’s camera has been stolen from the room while we were sleeping. In utter shock we went to the police and there was questioning and inquiring everywhere, but to no avail. There are many suspicions but end of the day no solid leads upto now on my lost gear. It was a huge blow to my life, and an utter shock. Even no I sometimes wonder what really happened as it all seems like a bad dream.

Without my gear I was devastated, as not only will my photographic days in future be over, I would also have to cancel Africa. We had paid an advance already and bought the flight tickets as well, so a cancellation would just be an added loss. Luckily I have some amazing friends whom called me and without batting an eye lid said I could take their gear and to not cancel the trip. I felt touched and moved beyond words, and I cannot express my gratitude. So the trip was to go on as planned.

We were to leave on the 18th of March, and as I haven’t travelled abroad that much I was excited and nervous.

My mum is a seasoned traveler and hence I looked to her to take the lead.

At the airport waiting for my flight.

It was a tiring flight, with first 5 hours to Doha, where we landed there early morning. We are exhausted with no sleep, and the next flight to Nairobi was exhausting. While approaching Nairobi, my excitement grew, and looking out the window I could see a vast land, and was anticipating the amazing trip to come. When landing itself I saw a Giraffe from the air. I was elated and utterly excited.

Once we landed, we were taken to emigrations, and was greeted by my classmate and friend from school Lasitha, who works in Nairobi. Thanks to him we cleared through all counters and customs and headed out. We were abit scared as it’s a new country and we had lots of camera gear, hence it was a blessing to have someone like Lasitha with us.  We drove to his office close by to freshen up and wait for Hamisi. At around 9.30 am Hamisi arrived in the safari Van. It was driven by the guide and driver Juma, and Hamisi also will join us to ensure everything goes according to plan. Let me be honest, I expected an air conditioned van, but the safari vehicle was not. It was my mistake as well, as I didn’t ask specifically about it before. So saying goodbye to Lasitha, off we went towards Amboseli, our stay for 3 nights. 

With Lasitha at his office before leaving on the adventure

The roads in Nairobi we very busy, and the Mombasa-Nairobi highway was very busy with trucks and containers, and massive traffic blocks. It was all abit overwhelming for us initially, and still traumatized by my robbery I was very nervous. The roads in Kenya are very dusty, and its amazing how accustomed people are to the dust, which we are not. The weather was pleasant though, as it was mildly cool and dry. While driving out of Nairobi we noticed vast expanses all the way to the horizon, something I had never seen before. The landscape was very dry, with very little greenery. We were marveling at all sights on the way, and even saw a giraffe by the roadside. The highway is very busy and sometimes very slow in towns where we had to slow down due to trucks which have stopped everywhere and also due to an amazing number of speed bumps. The locals stand on these speed bumps with bottles of water, fruits and catapults to sell to the truckers. It was quite intriguing, but also scary for us due to our nervousness for our gear. Also I realized the time taken in journeys take much longer than when initially confirmed. When we asked how long it was to Amboseli, it was said 150km and about 3 hours, but we ended up taking about 5-5.5 hours. Also there was a road block near Emali town, because some Masaai were protesting. So we had to take a wild detour through dusty dirt roads, to fall back again to the main road. We entered the park through the Kimana Gate. Finally entering the park, we were refreshed with the sightings of some of the most amazing wildlife.

From the entrance itself, we saw hundreds of zebra, and wildebeest. It was amazing to see so much life everywhere. Driving through, I got a glimpse of my first African Elephant. Also I saw the lovely Secretary Bird, a tall bird of prey who walks around and kills snakes by stomping on them. We were late and had to rush to the lodge for lunch, but were spell bound with the sights.

At the Amboseli Entrance

Serena Lodge Premised and Gardens

Serena Lodge Gardens 

The Paintings on the walls of our room. Note- each room has unique paintings

 The spectacular view from the lodge verandah

 The charming designs of the lodge
 The reception are of the lodge. I love the artwork
 Another painting in our room

 The verandah area
The reception area

We reached Serena Lodge which is situated inside the park, and were given a warm welcome by the staff. We were taken straight for lunch, but we were dead tired so couldn’t really enjoy it. We were given an extra-large room as a special offer, which was more than welcome. We were extremely tired with little or no sleep for 2 days, we had a quick wash and got ready for the next game drive at 4.00 pm.

 African Cape Buffalo
 Thompsons Gazelle
 Olive Baboon
 Young Thompsons Gazelle
Baby Olive Baboon

Hamisi and Juma greeted us at the entrance, and we set off on our drive. The wildlife seen in the park is limitless, and there is no moment where there is nothing, we saw so many mammals and birds its hard to describe in words. The elephants were massive and the size difference to Sri Lankan elephants was immediate. The bulls towered above us and were over 12 feet tall. The females too were impressive. I was on the lookout for big tuskers and Tim in particular. After searching all over the park, we came towards the Ol Tukai swamp. This vast marsh area had many elephants. I used a Canon 400mm f2.8 for the trip and put on a 2x tele convertor to get more reach. Observing the elephants, I noticed one with much larger ivory. Initially it was hard to determine due to the tusks being covered in the marsh, but after some waiting I confirmed it was a big tusker. Initially I thought it was Tim, given the tusk shape. The photos weren’t that great because he was very far away, and even with the 2x convertor it was hard to get a decent shot. Later analysis back in Sri Lanka would reveal that this bull was not Tim, but Craig, another old big bull found in the park. We got news of a Cheetah sighting close by so we headed that way. We saw the cat, but it was so far away it was hard to make out even from the big lens. We did encounter a very large herd of elephants though, which had many females, calves and bulls in musth. It was getting late and excited about my first days sightings, we headed back to the lodge for some much needed rest.

 Duelling Thompsons Gazelle
 African Cap Buffalo
The first bull elephant I saw in the park

 Craig, the 1st big tusker we saw in Ol Tukai Swamp


Early morning the next day, we headed out back into the park. That morning we looked around but couldn’t find Craig, but we did come across a herd in beautiful light coming towards the road. We spend over and hour observing their movements and actions. Slowly they crossed the road, along with one big bull, and walked towards the swamp. Heading back for breakfast, we went back to the lodge. We did an afternoon game drive, which we realized was not a good idea due to the heat and searing sun. But we did manage to see some elephants in the swamps as well as a flock of flamingoes flying overhead. That evening we came across some lions who tried to hunt warthog but failed. Elephants are everywhere in the park, and I would say over 500+ individuals are constantly seen. I believe the numbers far exceed those of Minneriya or Kaudulla in Sri Lanka. The looming shadow of Mount Killimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain was amazing and awe inspiring. This snowcapped peak was seen early mornings and late evenings when the skies are clear. This was truly heaven.

 Even the females have large ivory
 A big bull approaching a femal
 A young female with very long tusks

 The spectacular Mount Killimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain
 The iconic photo of elephant with the mountain in the background

 The dust makes for some beautiful pictures

 A large bull

 A herd of Wildebeest with Mount Killimanjaro in the backdrop

Early morning the next day, we were welcomed with some amazing light, which resulted in some amazing photo opportunities. I came across the amazing Kori Bustard, a unique bird which fascinated me. While driving along the main road, Juma stopped the van and showed a hyena, and then I noticed a lion walking towards it. We were amazed to see a moment when the two mortal enemies crossed paths. The lioness, walked towards us, and went to a puddle behind the van to drink water, and was joined by 6 other lionesses. We were amazed, and awe struck. After drinking their fill, the pride crossed the road and walked away. After that sighting, in a distance I saw a herd of elephants with one particularly large individual. Through my lens, I observed the bull had two massive tusks, which were unmistakable. It was the big bull Tim. Highly excited I asked Juma how to get to where the herd was, but sadly they were so far into the swamp, there were no roads to get to them. I felt frustrated as we were so close but yet so far away. After trying many roads, we failed and went back to the lodge disappointed. That afternoon I tried as well, but the herd was too far into the swap. That evening we went all over the swamp area looking for Tim, but he was nowhere to be found. There were many other big bulls, but Tim’s size was unmistakable.

 Two mortal enemies- Lion and Hyena
 Lioness Approaching us in the morning

 Drinking water behind our van
 Another female approaching
 More lions

Lion with Killimanjaro

 Spotted Hyena
 Spotted Hyena
 Spotted Hyena
I saw Tim with a herd in the distance. Notice the visible size differnce of the big bull with the females

That evening, we got a superb encounter with three Cheetahs. It was a trio of mother with two cubs, and the young ones were very playful and jumping and chasing eachother. It was amazing to get so close to this graceful cat. 

The next day, I spotted a big bull elephant in a distance with a herd. Thinking its Tim, we waited, and the bull slowly approached a cross road. We waited there and the giant slowly walked towards us. It was a big bull alright, but it wasn’t Tim. This majestic bull is named “Little Male” by the research team and was the same age as Tim. He loomed over us, and after some time shook his head in annoyance and walked away. I was happy that I saw one big bull up-close at least.

 The big bull named Little Male
 The big bull named Little Male
 The big bull named Little Male getting annoyed with us
 The big bull named Little Male
The big bull named Little Male

Next we checked out from Serena Lodge and headed towards our next chapter in our trip, which was Tsavo. The journey was long and tiring and after about 6 hours, were exhausted. The elevation in Tsavo was much lower so we suffered from the extreme heat. The park was very dry and the landscape was scrub jungle, which was much different to Amboseli. The Tsavo elephants are recognized for their red color, as they dust themselves in the red soil of the park. After a long drive inside the park, we reached our Lodge Ashnil Aruba in Tsavo East National Park. The heat was unbearable, and the even though the staff were ok, they weren’t as friendly as the people in Serena. The room we were given was like an oven, and that afternoon was unbearable. While waiting at the reception for the van to arrive for the game drive, we saw a few bull elephants feeding close to the fence in the lodge. They had big tusks, but none like Tim and Little Male.

A bull elephant in Tsavo taken from my room
 Big tusker from Tsavo
Male Waterbuck in Tsavo

The game drive was interesting we saw hundreds of elephants, even more than Amboseli, as well as some animals we hadn’t seen before like Oryx, Waterbuck and Vultures. There were some lions at a kill but was very far away. Retiring for the evening, we told Hamisi that we would like to go back to Amboseli for the next 2 days. It would cost us extra, but we felt it was the best decision at the time. That night was unbearable due to the heat, my mum and myself both were up all night. We were looking forward to getting back to Amboseli.

We were up early the next day, and set of with much eagerness. Reaching Amboseli in the afternoon, we were welcomed with great enthusiasm by the Serena staff. We felt at home and welcome even more than our previous visit. We were given a superior suite, and felt VIP given our return. That day the van experienced some engine trouble and hence we were advised to just relax without going on a  game drive which we agreed to given that we too were tired. That night while relaxing and enjoying the spectacular view from the verandah of the lodge, we were visited by a big bull elephant whom the hotel has named Adam. He came over and scratched his back on an acacia tree and walked off. We were entertained that night by the tunes of James Dzomo the lodge resident musician. The stay was also more enjoyable due to the superb staff in Serena, from the gardener to the waiters. From the waiting staff one guy in particular Francis was very helpful and friendly, and we liked him because he reminded us of one of my uncles (Uncle Hari J )

Birdlife of Kenya

The birds seen in Kenya are amazing, and the number of species astounding. Below are some photos of the birds I saw in Kenya

 Ostrich- The darker feathers are of the male. The largest bird in the world

 African Fish Eagle
 Goliath Heron
 Black Capped Heron
 Superb Starling

 Superb Starling
 Kori Bustard

 Red Billed Hornbill
 The crowned Crane

 White Faced Duck
 Egyptian Goose
 Malachite Kingfisher
 Secretary Bird

 Egyptian goose
 Glossy Ibis

Spur Winged Goose

The next day we got late to do our safari because the van still had some engine problems, but we managed to see some spectacular birdlife in the marshes, such as the Malachite Kingfisher, Spur winged Goose, Glossy Ibis, White Faced Duck, Egyptian Goose etc. We saw hippos in the marshes but they were too far away and the light wasn’t great for a super shot.

 Wildebeest Calf

 Sunset in Amboseli

We allowed Juma and Hamisi to spend time in the garage that day, and they arrived at 4.30 in the evening for the safari. Meanwhile during lunch we were informed that the hotel management has decided to host a special Bush Barbecue for us in the forest below the hotel for dinner. That evening as well we did abit of birding in the marshes, and were on the lookout for lions, but didn’t see any.

During the night, we got dressed up and went to the reception, where we were greeted by a Masai warrior (who is also the resident naturalist), and he escorted us and another two parties down a forest path lit by lamps to a spot in the forest below the hotel, where a lovely barbecue was being prepared. We were seated in our tables facing a camp fire. The host of the event explained the 7 course meal and thereafter our dinner commenced. While having our meal, we saw a hippo walk past our tables. Also I spotted an eagle own using the night vision binoculars they supplied.

 Francis our waiter who looked like Uncle Hari :)
 Entertained at the bush barbecue by Masai Tribesmen
Chef making Flambe fruits for dessert

 The resident musician James Dzomo
Masai warriors jumping high during a dance

After a hearty meal we were entertained by Masai warriors and women. It was amazing how the group had a chorus and was carried out all acapella without the use of instruments. The men started jumping to great heights and we realized some of the men we knew as they were working in the hotel. It was amazing to see their performance and we felt honored.
It was a memorable evening and a fitting way to end our stay in Africa.

The next day was our last game drive. Little did I know that this would be the most memorable for me. While driving around looking for lions (whom are called “Simba” in Swahili), I noticed a group of elephants far away, towards the foothills of Killimanjaro. I asked Juma to stop and I observed using my lens, just in case Tim was there. I couldn’t believe when I identified that Tim was with the herd! I was excited and I told Juma and asked him how we should position our van. He said that we should wait on the main road, because the herd would cross the road to go to the swamps. My heart was beating faster and faster with excitement. The big bull Tim was finally within reach, and I could see his towering form in the far corner of the herd. The herd of over 100 elephants slowly started crossing the road. But my focus was on the big bull. He towered over others, and was in the far back, slowly walking towards us. It seemed like hours, but gradually he walked towards us, with his head raised high showing confidence and dominance. One of his tusks touches the ground while the other is curved inwards. His height I would estimate at 13 feet, and was clearly the biggest elephant in Amboseli and the biggest elephant I have ever seen in my life. This was truly a colossus, and a living legend, and an icon of the old Africa. This sort of big tusker is very hard to come by, and might be lost after he is gone. The current genes of elephants tend to produce smaller tusks or no ivory at all, and poachers don’t help either, as their greed and the greed of Chinese consumers grows. It was only two years since the loss of Satao the great tusker of Tsavo. While watching his majesty walking in front of us, I worried for Tim. He might be safe while he’s in the park, but being a bull elephant, he is sure to wander during most of the year outside the parks. This is where he’s in most danger of poachers. Once he is gone, there is doubt if any tuskers would match his size and majesty. Craig comes close but yet Tim is much bigger.

Video of Tim crossing the road

After he walked off, I was left with an adrenaline drain, and was speechless. I was left in awe and contemplation for hours after that. What a fitting way to end our trip to Africa. It all seemed like a dream, and it still does to me when it comes to my encounter with Tim. We were sad to leave Serena Lodge and Amboseli, but it was time to go, and we said our goodbyes to the staff, and headed to Nairobi.

 Me and mum relaxing in the afternoon at Serena Lodge

 Me and Hamisi from Ringo Adventure Safari

 Hamisi and Juma
After our last game drive. Happiness beyond words.

My friend Lasitha invited us to his home for dinner before the flight, and hence we were looking forward to meeting him and his family. But as usual form in Kenya, we faced a massive roadblock where there was some form of chaos or riots and we were delayed by over 3 hours. We reached Lasitha’s apartment at around 6.30 pm tired and dusty from the journey. We were welcomed into his home and met his wife, lovely baby son, his mother in law and sister. We felt right at home and was honored to be welcomed by this lovely family. After a hearty meal prepared by Lasitha’s wife Sashini and her mum, we had to bid our goodbyes and leave to the airport.

 With my friend Lasitha and his family

We were tired, and dreading the long flight ahead. But after over 12 hours of tireless flying we landed in good old Sri Lanka. We were exhausted but excited at the same time, eager to tell our story and adventure with family and close friends. Going through over 4000 raw images the next day I managed to work out a decent collection from our trip. The lighting and photo opportunities in Africa are unmatched, and a must see for anyone before they die. I am still dreaming about this adventure, and the memory of my encounter with Tim will always be etched in my mind.

Africa, I will return


  1. Ayanthi GooneratneApril 25, 2016 at 2:54 AM

    Hi Rajiv,
    I was so busy today with a lot of work, but when I saw your blog, I just had to read it! Wonderful!! Felt as if I myself had made the trip. Thank you for sharing.

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